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The author recalls the gamblers, the brawlers, and the Pulitzer Prize-winning writers who made Elaines the city’s most famous late-night literary hangout.
He kept telling the back rows to hide their hands. He moved the center group close in around Elaine. A few were missing. Norman Mailer had agreed to be there, but a big storm had marooned him on Cape Cod.

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There were others of those early years who should have been in the pictureNelson Aldrich, now the editor of the magazine Civilization, Frederick Seidel, the poet. But in fact it was a fairly representative assemblage of the writers who spent their evenings in the sixties and seventies, and many who still do, in the Upper East Side restaurant with Elaine’s name scripted on the yellow canopy out front.
Alas, three could not turn up today if Penn were called upon to do this again. Willie Morris, the former editor of Harper’s, his moon face at the far left as you look at the picture, died last year.

The little, almost ghostly, image just above Elaine is that of Jean-Pierre Rassam, who introduced Milos Forman to Hollywood, himself a producer {La Grande Bouffe) and who unexpectedly died, in Paris, in 1985. Bernard Farber, in a tie on the upper right, an old and valued friend, a writer at Esquire, died of carbon monoxide poisoning in his garage.
But the others could come back and do. Bobby Short, in the back row, hands out of sight, is probably Elaine’s oldest friend.

Already established as (in composer Vernon Duke’s words) “the Pied Piper of the Plushier Saloons, ” he knew her from her restaurant in Greenwich Village, Portofino, which she ran for four years before moving uptown, in 1963.
Almost immediately upon Elaine’s opening in April of that year the writers began to drift nostalgia.
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