Step one in everybody’s make-up regime should be thorough cleansing let’s face it, if you were going to spray-paintyour car you would first wash off the grimy bits sticking to its surface. While cleansing is at the core of a traditional beauty regime, it is also at the heart of the dermatologist-cosmetologist debate. While old-school dermatologists insist that soap with water is the only way to cleanse the skin thoroughly, most women know from bitter experience that this is a sure way to a dry and itchy face. Although soap is frequently maligned as a surface stripper, many bars contain fats that leave superficial traces, and these can lead to clogged pores and unsightly break-outs. Despite its reputation for harshness, soap is alkaline while the skin itself is acidic – used too frequently, soap can impair the skin’s acid mantle (its pH balance) and deplete its defences.
If you are unfortunate enough to look like a walking advertisement for olive oil, the temptation to scrub your skin clean with soapy water can be all-consuming. After all, there is nothing like a good ‘rub ‘n’ suds’ routine to leave you feeling fresher. However, if you feel grimy following anything but a When your skin changes, as a result of climate, age, stress or other factors, your skincare system needs to be adjusted accordingly. Compare it to when you first join a professional gym. A trained instructor u/ill assess your indiuidual fitness leuel before determining your personal fitness programme, and as you improue (or maybe get injured) your system needs to be either up- or downgraded. The same idea applies to skincare.
Susan Steitzer, former vice president, Education, Clinique water-based routine, there are now a plethora of wash-off products on the market (everything from bars to foams to liquid cleansers) that are just as satisfying to use, and milder on the complexion. Avoid ingredients such as lanolin, paraffin and added moisturizers, as they block the pores and lead to break-outs; and leave anything containing the extremely drying benzoyl peroxide to the acne-conscious teenager. Rememberthat although a non-soap cleanserwill set you back a little more than the average bar of Lux, your face will not feel like a wrung-outface cloth an hour after you have washed it.
If the driest thing about you is not your sense of humour, you are best treating your face to a milky or cream cleanser.
1 Wash your hands first. Dirty paws make for dirty faces.
2 Cleanse well around the edges of your face -remember that make-up travels round your jaw line, and after a good night out most hair products end up past your hairline.
3 Change your cleanser with the weather – harsh winds in winter and hot sun in summer can be drying and affect the behaviour of the epidermis.
4 Ifyou have sensitive skin, use a mild cream cleanser. Avoid anything that contains lanolin or fragrance, as these can aggravate the skin and lead to soreness.
5 Do not use the same bottle of cleanser for more than eight to ten weeks. Like everything else, skincare has sell-by dates, and these should be respected ifyou want to maximize the benefits.
Sceptic once sneered at the idea that creams could penetrate so deeply; today the Food and Drug Administration in the USA keeps tight checks on all ingredients, in case something that is strong enough to be classed as a prescription drug is passed off as a simple face cream.
While there is a moisturizer in every texture and for every skin type, they always fall into two main categories: these are humectants and occlusives. The humectant variety draws water up from inside the dermis to hydrate the superficial layers, or attracts it from the surrounding atmosphere. Occlusives (better for drier skins) create an oily film on the surface of your complexion, and this seals moisture in and prevents evaporation. There are oil-free water emulsions for oily skins (look for products labelled non-comedogenic as these help prevent unsightly breakouts) and water-in-oil formulations for drier skins. Whatever your skin type, a good tip is to make sure that your face is slightly damp before you apply moisturizer-this will make it go further, and remove the temptation to slap on great globules of unnecessary product.